14 Times the Past and Present Walked Side by Side in the Fall 2020 Collections

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14 Times the Past and Present Walked Side by Side in the Fall 2020 Collections
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The fall 2020 collections offered many lessons in fashion history. Here, see how designers went full circle for fall.

The #stayhome orders don’t preclude time traveling, so it’s an activity I continue to enjoy during quarantine. My visits are frequent and often brief, what motivates me is trying to understand why things resurface when they do. We saw lots ofin the fall collections, for example. Times of turmoil often arouse interest in the neoclassical, which can be explained as a desire to clasp onto ideals that seem as solid and unchanging as statues from antiquity.

In addition to trend tracking, there’s also the pure joy of drawing visual comparisons between now and then. Though not an exact science, these side-by-sides might give us clues about the intangible currents that are shaping the future. Consider this: The square shapes at Balenciaga can be seen as a nod to Martin Margiela’s “flat pack” collection ofand to the exaggerated, borrowed from the boys shoulders of the 1940s that symbolized strength in a troubled era.

The pre-war period of the 1930s seems especially salient right now. That was the era of Surrealism—and, boy, do things seem out of this world today—and also of clothing that followed the line of the body. Slip-like dresses, many cut on the bias, à la Madeleine Vionnet, were poured like liquid over the body at Rodarte, among other places.

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