Genie Nguyen Smith of Plano shares dishes and memories of cooking with her mom.
“‘Season the food until your ancestors tell you to stop,’ is more my translating of what she [my mom] was trying to say,” Genie says. “What she always told me was to eyeball it until you think it’s right, and then taste it. If too salty, add more water; if too sweet, dump some of it out and add more water.”
Genie, born and raised in Dallas, tells the story of her immigrant parents who desired to keep their Vietnamese culture present in their home. Food was key. “Hue is known for being the spicy region of Vietnam in cuisine,” Genie says. “Hue people use a lot of fermented shrimp paste [ruoc] in their dishes; usually added later as a condiment. It has a very salty and seafood taste. The smell can be very offensive to some though.”
Soon after Genie graduated college, Hoa passed away, leaving a void in their family’s kitchen. The difficulty of cooking without her presence and knowledge was felt through the course of daily eating and during the holidays.Without written recipes, Genie’s desire to maintain her mother’s memory and food was a task familiar to many. Fortunately, Genie’s childhood role as sous chef came in handy.
To be invited into such a sacred space was an honor. Together, with my neighbor, I was given the privilege of keeping a memory alive by learning the ways of Hoa and Genie’s ancestors.
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