Because the best gifts are the ones you can eat. (A lot of.)
My family treats Christmas cookie baking as part gladiatorial sport, part opera. The tradition started with my Italian-American grandmother, Erminia, who would push herself and her oven to the limit every December, waking up at 5 a.m. and baking until she had filled every old cookie tin and ancient Tupperware with hermit slices, pizzettes, spritz cookies, anise cookies, biscotti, candy cane twists, Polish rum balls.... It didn’t end until Christmas Day, or until the oven gave out .
My grandma didn’t use tahini or disco dust, but my cookies still share these nonnegotiables: They’re easy enough to make in big batches and sturdy enough to travel to many a party, where you can trade them like currency. As should be the case, giving them to friends and family is the best part. Just be sure they return your tins.
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