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But I do think there’s something to the fact that heirloom tomatoes — and more precisely, “tomato season” — are crowding so many Instagram feeds this summer. There’s virtue signaling all over it: an obsession with organic, healthy food; a commitment to shopping locally from greenmarkets and farm stands; a discerning palate that appreciates the difference between in-season and out-of-season produce; and the ability to turn plain tomatoes into oozing galettes or basil-flecked salads.
I’m not quite sure why tomatoes have become the vehicle of choice for projecting our aspirational summer selves. But a vehicle they’ve become, an unassuming yet unmistakable representation of the wholesome, healthful, conscientious, ethical humans we wish to be. The sun is shining, tomatoes are peaking, and so are we.
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