A Classic Watch Gets a Glittering Upgrade

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A Classic Watch Gets a Glittering Upgrade
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The backstory of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Secret Necklace.

Released in 1931 as a men’s polo watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is an Art Deco design classic to rival the Chrysler Building. A gleaming symbol of between-the-wars modernity, the Reverso reflected the artistic and technological innovations of its time. It had a pivoting action that allowed for the case to turn over, keeping the watch protected while the wearer played; a flat metal surface could better resist a whack from a wooden ball than the glass face.

The Reverso wasn’t all about function, though. Its handsome rectangular design was inspired in part by the ancient golden ratio mathematical formula, very much in vogue at the time and considered by many, across centuries, to be the most harmonious and pleasing stylistic proportion. Perhaps that is why the Reverso was one of the company’s biggest sellers and became a crossover hit with women.

Now that classic is being reinterpreted as a riotous diamond-and gem-festooned high-jewelry offering featuring a chain of diamond-set links and onyx beads from which a richly gem-set pink gold case is suspended, anchored by polished charms. Needless to say, the Reverso Secret Necklace, as the new style is being called, conceals a timepiece that can be turned over at the wearer’s discretion; it is a stunning exemplar of luxury that feels very of the moment.

Catharine Lorillard Wolfe Collection, Wolfe Fund, 1918, Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Portrait of Madame Jacques-Louis Leblanc, 1823, by Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, depicts the aristocrat wearing a timepiece as a necklace.Keystone-France/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.According to Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier, one of a handful of female chief executives in the watch world, the Reverso’s constant updates have helped to keep it relevant, but the key to its success is the unmistakable Deco echo—the timeless design of the case.

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