12,000 years of history are at stake in Turkey
a sight to behold. The piles of a medieval bridge, each the size of a large building, rise from the waters of the Tigris river. Cliffs riddled with thousands of neolithic caves, some still used as homes or animal sheds, some once used as churches, hover above. Farther up, an ancient citadel, home to Byzantine ruins, an Ayyubid mosque and rows of ancient tombstones, watches over the site from a steep hilltop. Countless other archaeological wonders are assumed to be buried beneath.
Hasankeyf, a town of some 3,000 souls in Turkey’s south-east, has cradled one civilisation after another for 12,000 years, making it one of the longest continuously inhabited places on Earth. In as little as a few months, it will be no more. A hydroelectric dam constructed downstream will soon cut off the Tigris, sending billions of cubic metres of water flooding into the valley.
Most people in Hasankeyf live off tourism, and some off animal husbandry. The new project threatens to wipe out both, says Ridvan Ayhan, a local activist, taking his tea outside one of the caves, watching the Tigris below. “Most of the people here will end up having to migrate to the big cities,” he says. “Their ancestors settled here because of the water, and now they will have to leave because of the water.
Hasankeyf’s extinction has been in the making for decades. Plans for a regional dam, part of a vast development scheme for the restive, poverty-stricken Kurdish south-east, were first drawn up in the 1950s. Construction began in 2006.
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