Tossed with butter and soy. 😍
, on American cook and food writer James Beard. Birdsall and I are both self-quarantined, in San Francisco and New York City respectively. I’ve just reached out to him because I’m writing about Beard’s asparagus, and I figured, as someone who’s just written the man’s biography, Birdsall might have something to say about it.
The second preparation piques my interest most—especially these days, as I’m cooking for myself more than ever and looking for inspiration anywhere I can. Tonight, this asparagus feels not only doable, but stupidly simple. Surely just butter and soy sauce couldn’t possibly make anything taste that good ... right?“Been combing through Beard’s Menus For Entertaining and soy sauce teams up with ‘catsup’ and honey in a sauce for Double Roast Loin of Pork.
“James grew up in emotionally difficult circumstances,” Birdsall tells me, “the only child of parents who despised each other and so cultivated separate lives.Apparently, Birdsall says, this paper-thin asparagus is a variation of a dish that Helen Evans Brown—author of, not to mention Beard’s friend and collaborator—made often, called Tin How Asparagus. “Helen's version is more elaborate,” Birdsall tells me.
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