A new census shows how a Brazilian favela really works

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A new census shows how a Brazilian favela really works
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Complexo de Maré, a favela in Rio home to some 140,000 people, had been a blank spot on Google and city maps

down Rua Teixeira Ribeiro, a commercial avenue in the Complexo da Maré, Rio de Janeiro’s biggest favela, you barely notice the open-air drug markets guarded by teens with-47s. There are also pet stores with exotic fish, restaurants with better service than most Copacabana bistros and a hipster barbershop with mood lighting and retro décor. And now, for the first time, they have been counted.

The data created by the mapping have been shared with Google, and now the Maré’s streets and businesses are visible online and recorded by the city government. In 2016 more than 530 street names entered the official register, the largest collection in history. Their residents gained postcodes, which enabled them to sign up for bank accounts and receive letters.

The results illuminate how the favela’s economy works. Around 13% of businesses close each year but owners often start new ventures. The Maré has no physical bank, so startup capital usually comes from savings earned from jobs in the formal economy; only 15% of favela entrepreneurs have any debt. Businesses that are obsolete elsewhere thrive.

Similar mapping projects are now taking place in more than 200 of Rio’s 1,018 informal settlements, home to 23% of the city’s population. The hope is that they can bring about similar changes. But although counting encourages the government to pay attention, it cannot restore order. On May 6th police helicopters started shooting over the Maré just as children left schools. In the first four months of this year, cops in the state gunned down 558 people.

At the Museu da Maré, a humble institution housed in an old ship-building factory, exhibits show how life has improved. There are, barrels once used to haul water from the nearby Guanabara Bay. Nowadays 98% of residents have running water. Each year more attend university. “We thought the violence would disappear once we got electricity, water and trash collection, but we were wrong,” says Lourenço Cezar da Silva, the museum’s director.

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