A new venture from restaurateur Rose Previte of D.C. restaurants Maydan and Compass Rose aims to give a megaphone to underrepresented winemakers.
“My winery is named Ses’fikile, which means ‘We have arrived.’ It speaks to the arrival of women in a space traditionally reserved for men,” says Nondumiso Pikashe, a winemaker in the Paarl region of South Africa. “And also the arrival of the peoples of Africa. It’s a sense that we can rewrite history, that we can walk the road less traveled.
Previte had the idea for this venture during the early weeks of the covid pandemic, when restaurants were shut down and scrambling to survive by selling off their wine inventories at deep discounts. Even then, she stuck to her ideal of wine, like food, as an agent of social impact. “We sold only Georgian and Lebanese wines,” she says, “because I still wanted to help those winemakers.
“Wine’s politics and hierarchies, its geography and its wars are all European and male-centric,” she continued. “So we reached out to marginalized winemakers — refugees, women of color, women all over the world who don’t have access to the U.S. market.”As Arnold told me a week later at a launch event at Maydan, Go There Wines aims to elevate “folks who have been left out of the conversation for too long,” and who have been “undercapitalized and underrepresented.
And that’s part of the attraction for their winemakers, who include Abdullah Richi, a Syrian refugee who has fled war there and is now making wine in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley. The label on his pet-nat of pinot noir explains his dream: “I will make wine in Syria again.”“This wine celebrates all matriarchs,” Pikashe says on the label of her sparkling cinsault.
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