From Villa Lena to Auberge Sauvage, Tom Howells explores the best countryside hotels for foodies around the world.
From the verdant hills of northern Italy to the bucolic farmlands of Normandy, top cooks are decamping to the countryside. Over the past few years, big names and cool up-and-comers have taken on head chef roles at rural “restaurants with rooms”, where ingredients are seasonal and ethical, and the accommodation is romantically rustic. Now, a new school of food-obsessed travelers is following them, chasing culinary thrills, eco-friendly cooking, and proper relaxation.
Across the border, Villa Lena, a sublime 1,200-acre agriturismo in the craggy Tuscan hills, has gained fresh fans thanks to a new restaurant concept created by Paris’s Marco Baldeschi and Michael Sager, of London’s Sager & Wilde. Osteria San Michele dishes up produce from Lena’s sun-dappled organic ortos, while the villa is a pastel-colored vision of neo-Renaissance architecture. There are similarly sylvan resorts in Spain , Sweden , and Slovenia .
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