'As I ate this new cookie, I looked for the nutty flavor of browned butter but couldn’t taste it past the sugar. There was the scent of vanilla and a bit of molasses. There was so much chocolate.'
Levain says it’s their first new cookie flavor in 25 years. Photo: Melissa Hom No fewer than seven people had chocolate on their face when I walked into the newest location of Levain Bakery, on Lafayette in Noho, last week.
The cookie, of course, was famously invented in 1938, when Ruth Wakefield, owner of the Toll House restaurant in Whitman, Massachusetts, published her recipe for Toll House Chocolate Crunch Cookies in her Tried and True cookbook. A year later, Wakefield sold Nestle the rights to her recipe for $1. After you order a cookie at the counter at Levain, the cashier turns around and gently picks up a fragile cookie with a piece of bakery tissue paper. It’s slipped into a paper bag and handed over with a single white square paper napkin. The cookie’s warmth radiates through the bag, and its heft is comforting. It is the weighted blanket of pastries.
New Yorkers in the know have been safely satisfying their craving for raw cookie dough since 1995 by lining up at Levain, where the cookies have always been extremely underbaked. You can pull out some of the inside of a Levain two-chip and roll it into a small ball of dough. The melted chocolate makes this a messy endeavor, but there it is, a nubbin of cookie dough, likely safe enough to eat after spending a spell in the oven. It is so sweet that it makes my salivary glands ache.
As far as dark chocolate is concerned, this is not very dark. Jacques Torres’s chocolate chip cookies, which blew up around 12 years ago, use at least 60 percent chocolate throughout. In Chicago at Mindy’s Hot Chocolate, chef Mindy Segal makes her chocolate chip cookies with 64 percent chocolate.
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