Notes on a week of beans, by plattypants
Not again … Photo: Stuart Minzey/Getty Images “Only one serving per prisoner!” one of my daughters cried, as another one of Dad’s admittedly dreckish-looking viral “heirloom” bean recipes plopped down on the dinner table not long ago.
I’ve had a personal hatred for chickpeas forever — don’t ask me why — but as the cans piled up and soon began to overwhelm other, more civilized everyday rations in the not-very-large family larder, the bean recipes began arriving in my inbox too. Recipes for rich and enticing bean soups and stews, for bean-rich pasta creations, and cheesy skillet-cooked baked beans designed to be eaten like farting cowboys around the fire, with stacks of toasty masa tortillas and big wooden spoons.
Day two on the weekly family cook’s schedule was Dad’s turn, and so I turned hopefully to that great gusher of comforting viral hoarder recipes, my New York Times Recipe Box. “Cheesy Spicy Black Bean Bake” was the cowboy fantasy I chose, an appealing-looking mix of skillet-cooked beans, cumin, tomato paste, and melted cheese, which I enlivened with a decorous chopping of the last of our cheddar-sausage reserve.
On day four the drumbeat of shelter-in-place pantry recipes commenced again. We gamely ingested Dad’s version of frijoles and rice, which looked plenty grim, I’ll admit, but was made with real soaked beans, plenty of chicken stock, and a generous stub of bacon. .
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