Shaina Loew-Banayan’s new book chronicles 15 years of their relationship to food, in an irreverent stream of consciousness. “As I read Loew-Banayan’s book, I found myself in the grips of my own analogous memories,” Tamar Adler writes.
” . But Loew-Banayan is the first writer I’ve encountered who pounds the two genres together into a substance so singular and true to itself that they seem to forge their own language, a code integral to the telling of their story.
“Elegy for an Appetite” centers on fifteen years in Loew-Banayan’s life, beginning in adolescence. It is written in forty-eight short chapters of sprinting, irreverent stream of consciousness that is only scantly punctuated. The first sends up a chef named Jonny, who made poop jokes and lisped the word “demi-glace.
Loew-Banayan uses pseudonyms for the restaurants that they worked at after college—identifying these would pin our flimsy attention to the wrong things—but, as digital natives say, IYKYK: if you know, you know. For readers who’ve worked in fine dining, Loew-Banayan’s writing has a thrilling insider quality.
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