Review: ‘Beef,’ starring Ali Wong and Steven Yeun, is wildly entertaining, and occasionally profound.
Road rage as a sociological concept—as a damning manifestation of present-day temperament—has, perhaps, seen its heyday come and go. It was a hot-button topic in the early years of this century, back when most blowups weren’t happening online. The late-night monologue jokes have since died out, for the most part, but of course the real problem persists, as America seems to get angrier and angrier, tenser and more atomized with each crack of society’s bedrock.
Yeun and Wong are compelling leads, allowing Danny and Amy to be both irksome and pitiable, toxically selfish and plainly sympathetic. Wong is mostly known as a standup comedian, so it’s a thrill to see her explore her range and come up with a character so complicated and slippery. She’s particularly adept at showing Amy’s fraught code switching, between a breezy Angeleno glide at work and the wounded, furious person within.
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