Alison Cook makes her first Taste of Texas visit in decades. Is it still a holiday classic?
conducted by Restaurant Business Online, Taste of Texas’s gross food and beverage sales rang in at $23,180,522 last year, which landed it at the number 14 slot in the nation, just a little below the august Commander’s Palace in New Orleans. What was the draw?
Taste of Texas is decorated with co-owner Nina Hendee’s new and antique Christmas artifact collection. “You should talk to him,” urged my partner in crime. “No way!” I protested. But then I looked around at the dizzying ornament overload, plugged into the air of holiday pandemonium in the lobby, and surrendered to the experience. I chatted with Santa, posed with him looking somewhere between amused and nonplussed, then my friend Misha and I were led through room after highly embellished room to our corner table.
Silly me, I had no idea what Christmas at Taste of Texas unleashes in Houstonians’ hearts. According to co-owner Nina Hendee — who runs the restaurant with her husband, Edd, and assorted younger family members — Thanksgiving kicks off a crush of celebrants who fill the tables from lunchtime right through to closing at 10 p.m. On Christmas Eve day they open at 10:30 a.m. to accommodate the festive hordes. In short, this is Christmas Central for Houston’s west side, and beyond.
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