Review: The Lymbar at Midtown's Ion is vibrant and a lot of fun
Food: Highly personal mix of Latin American and Mediterranean, with a modular menu great for snacking or full meals. Plenty of hits and, at 3 1/2 months old, a few misses.Vibe: Delightfully quirky and relaxed, populated by a young-to-older crowd that’s dressed to network.Service: Welcoming and mostly very good.Parking: Fenced valet lot at dinner; free lot at lunch. Some street parking on Eagle St.
A menu bristling with such clever snacks and cocktails seems bound to make the Lymbar into the Ion’s go-to lounge and hangout Cordua intends it to be. The big, quirky room occupies a ground-floor corner of the radically reimagined 1939 Sears store that houses the tech incubator. There’s a sly mid-century charm to the Gin Braverman design, and range of seating options beckons tenants and passersby to come in.
So the menu’s cultural splices are not so farfetched. Bubbly-crusted empanadas might hold a sultry mix of spinach, feta and halloumi cheeses; or crumbly beef kofta studded with pinenuts and accented with hummus and scarlet “bomba,” the Calabrian chili condiment. They work. So, amusingly, does the vintage Americana of a Monte Cristo empanada, its salty innards of ham, turkey and Gruyere set against a racy raspberry/sesame vinaigrette. Shades of the 1980s.
Such puzzling blips are the exception, not the rule. The Baby Gem Caesar is punchy and pitch-perfect, right down to the toasted panko crumbs that liven the texture. I loved a seasonal special of sous-vide duck breast in a cherry mole negro; and feisty corn gnocchi in a pool of smoked tomato sauce, sparked by tart bursts of uncooked grape tomato. Their texture had the slight graininess of masa, a nod to the menu’s underlying corn theme. Like a number of dishes here, the gnocchi are listed under “bar bites” but could serve as a main course.
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