'Fernando Rios and Mike Sammons have cobbled together a two-man show without outside investors, in a simple space that once housed the late, great Thai restaurant, Kanomwan.'
The drinks list curated by Mike Sammons at the new Mimo Italian restaurant in the Near East EndI would have been sold on Mimo right there. But then came a hillock of fettucine hiding beneath mild pink folds of mortadella, the pasta tossed with green peas, pistachio, lemon and a bit of ricotta. It was fabulous — a reminder of chef Rios’ tenure at Da Marco, Dolce Vita and Weights & Measures, where his weekly pasta specials always drew me in.
There’s a mix of wooden chairs and tables, sheer rose curtains, and some hilarious reproduction paintings. Sammons’ Capital-E-eclectic tastes inform the mixtape. And there’s counter seating which I intend to occupy often. Maybe for a quick lunch of one of the five different house panini, like the simple layering of fresh mozzarella, intense roasted cherry tomatoes, arugula and San Daniele prosciutto I took home with me for later.
So is the fact that I’ll have easy access to dishes like disk-shaped orecchiette with roasted cauliflower and cherry tomatoes, basking in lemon butter with a bit of prosciutto for extra savor. Or molten orbs of satiny potato croquettes moored in herbal salsa verde. Or bowls of vanilla-bean panna cotta sparkling with candied citrus and mint in a tart/sweet syrup.
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