Alyx's fall 2023 menswear collection has arrived. See every look here:
“YES YES BLAH BLAH BLAH YAWN.” So was inscribed the canvas by Houston’s Mark Flood, boldly installed directly opposite the section of runway by which your correspondent was standing during this all-standing Alyx show. Yet this was anything but meh. Flood, 72, is the subject of an exhibition that will be hung in the Studio Maiocchi showspace for some time hence, and which also provided much of the decoration—not all of it surface-borne—in this collection.
Matthew Williams upgraded his slightly severe, tech-goth aesthetic—a no-brainer if anyone ever greenlights the Neuromancer movie—with new luxury versions of modular mole portage, de-gendered moto mid layers and stacked and distressed work boots. Top coats with box cut satin peaked lapels were worn over S.W.A.T. flavored combat pants to create post-apocalypse tuxedos. Floating sheaths of technical material swathed shell-shouldered jackets that signaled strength and movement.
Williams sticks to the refrain that he just makes clothes that he wants to wear. The five-deep audience, plus the after-party crowd straining outside, suggested that he remains an avatar of broader interests. Williams’ narrative is no fashion bildungsroman—it’s much more complex, with layers as wrought and unobvious as his artisan-distressed pieces. Such is its fascination for those who follow it.
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