Review: Amba delivers an adventurous, joyous and exciting experience for all the senses
For two decades, Doug Katz made things easy for his posh east-side followers. Guests who rolled up to Fire, his Shaker Square bistro, simply handed the keys to their late-model cars over to the valet attendant. At the host stand, those same diners could relax in the knowledge that a table with their name on it was at the ready thanks to a well-placed reservation.
So much has been said about Amba in the two-plus months it’s been open that one could assume they have the place pegged. But until you experience it in person, as I finally did a few weeks back, it’s all just words on a page or screen. Diners are ripped out of their comfort zones the moment they swap the sunlit sidewalk for the shadowy interior. A walk down a trim passageway to the host stand is just long enough for your eyes to begin to adjust.
Though Amba has its roots in a former ghost kitchen of the same name, this fully realized version has little in common with that take-out-only operation. Katz and executive chef Cameron Pishnery have crafted a tantalizing menu of Indian-inspired dishes that range from finger foods on up to full entrees. Like Zhug in Cleveland Heights, Amba all but demands the passing and sharing of plates, which need not be ordered all at once.
Soon, food began appearing in waves, all arranged like jewels on fine ceramic. Chestnut-hued cubes of paneer are dotted with mustard seeds and arranged in creamy dal. Fat prawns glisten with ghee beneath a shower of perfectly toasted coconut. Crispy puri cups look like mini UFOs filled with potato, raita and tamarind. Long slivers of fried zucchini get dunked into yogurt dip. Ground venison keema is spooned over basmati rice studded with raisins, almonds and fried onions.
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