It has nothing to do with the slightly spongy semi-risen pizza-dough bread usually called focaccia.
I spent many months in the early 1990s in the western Italian coastal region of Liguria researching the cookbook that became. I ate very well in the course of my research. Pesto was invented here, and Liguria’s is the best in the world. The region’s minestrone and ravioli are memorable; its veal and rabbit dishes, made with ingredients like tomatoes, pine nuts, and olives, practically define Mediterranean cuisine.
Recco’s pride was apparently invented in the late 1800s by one Manuelina Capurro, who ran a modest inn along Recco’s main road. The inn didn’t survive World War II, but in 1960, Capurro’s grandniece, Maria Rosa, and her husband opened a new restaurant, dubbing it Manuelina in her honor and featuring you-know-what. This was our first stop.
The next day, we had focaccia col formaggio again, this time down the road from Manuelina at Da Ö Vittorio, which employs one chef who does nothing but prepare focaccia day and night. Their version was excellent, a lot like Manuelina’s.
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