'Many of the special, formative moments I had after coming out in a city occurred not at the bars but over meals shared with friends after the bar closed.'
Doughnuts, coffee cups and wadded napkins were thrown at the police officers, who retreated at first but returned with reinforcements. The revolters, who included transgender people, gay men and “hustlers” — according to John Rechy, one of the men the police attempted to arrest, who detailed the event in his 1963 novel “City of Night” — continued their stand, the commotion blocking off that strip of the street through the night and into the next day.
Gay people have always gathered in bars or secret clubs, sacrosanct for their ability to protect us from outside evils. But more minutely, the sites function as just great places to knock back a drink after being on high alert all day in public. Every gay person who moves to a new city first seeks out the bars, to better understand the new environment. I did this in my 20s in New York as well.
Fresh homemade guacamole, served in a crispy flour tortilla bowl, with hand-cut tortilla chips and a side of salsa, at Casita del Campo in Silver Lake. And in West Hollywood, there are staples like Cafe d’Etoile, Saint Felix and even the Abbey, more famous as a raucous bar but one that’s also a community center for its patrons.
The food, frankly, is never that good. But that’s also not the point. These restaurants care more about creating an atmosphere of inclusiveness — or simply making money off a loyal clientele — than crafting the perfect dish that will land them in the pages of a food glossy. The now-closed Rocking Horse Cafe in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood was my go-to spot specifically for that reason.
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