At New York Fashion Week, Sheer Goes Mainstream

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At New York Fashion Week, Sheer Goes Mainstream
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Plus: I got rained out at Gypsy Sport.

Before joining the Cut in 2015, she was fashion critic at the New York Times from 1999 to 2014.Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Getty Images, AltuzarraPhoto-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Getty Images, Altuzarra

Considering how fast everything enters mass culture, it’s not surprising that the New York runways feel slower and more repetitive than usual. On Monday, both Michael Kors and LaQuan Smith showed sheer stretch tops. Exposing the body in vampish ways has been Smith’s turf, but it no longer seems as personal and special if a mainstream designer like Kors, with an image of tastefulness, can claim even a tiny morsel for himself.

I didn’t make it to Rio Uribe’s Gypsy Sport show that evening. Well, I made it as far as Governors Island, the show’s site, but a downpour and general disorganization caused me to turn back to Manhattan. I’m a huge fan of Uribe’s. His shows in New York and Paris in the late 2010s were more like confrontational explosions, with gender and brown and Black identity at the core; and there was no scrap of fabric, particularly denim, Uribe couldn’t do wonders with.

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