With such big personalities, fruity and spicy beers can stand up to the underlying acidity in certain dishes.
Lately I’ve been enjoying Trappist ales, which are most famously brewed by, or under the supervision of, monks in over a dozen monasteries throughout Europe. These beers showcase notes of fruit and warm spices. Tripels traditionally contain three times the malt and three times the alcohol of a regular Belgian blonde, the typical low-malt light ale of Belgium. Luckily, Tripels’ higher-than-average alcohol content doesn’t overwhelm noticeable hints of cinnamon, brown sugar, and dried fruit.
In saisons, meanwhile, you might pick up banana with a hint of clove. These bubbly, fruity brews are bottle-conditioned, meaning yeast is allowed to naturally carbonate the beer after fermentation is complete, adding another dimension of flavor. I love the way a saison, enjoyed after dinner, coaxes out the slightly bitter, grassy quality of a rich olive oil cake.
Also in the fruity and spicy category are hopless gruit ales. In the Middle Ages, before hops became the conventional, go-to bittering agent, beer was made with gruits—combinations of bitter herbs like yarrow or horehound. Nowadays, there’s a whole slew of more culinary-minded hop-less ales whose gruits are made with aromatics like oregano and peppery horseradish. Gruit ales pair well with all sorts of wintery roast meats and woody herbs—think rosemary-rubbed quail, or thyme-crusted venison.
Because fruity and spicy beers offer up so much flavor, they can easily become fallback ingredients in cooking, as they do in, in which the beer imparts an earthy flavor. But while these beers are great for cooking, they should be treated as more than a backdrop for simmering and stewing. Next time you’re cooking with a really good fruity and spicy beer, take a sip before you start. If you taste peppery and warm spices in the beer, think about how those flavors can compliment the dish. While I love using beer as an active ingredient, it’s just as great, if not better, when simply sipped on the side.
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