“I’ll see an artist’s kit, and it’s literally just catered for white to light-skinned models,” one Black makeup artist said.
According to analysis by, last month’s New York Fashion Week Spring 2022 was the second-most-diverse season on record with 55.5% models of color. And though the Christian Cowan runway show featured an array of models from different ethnicities and featuring various body types, the issues raised by Anderson brought to full view the seeming disconnect taking place behind the scenes.
And she’s learned to advocate for herself. Makeup artist Edeme gave Anderson one-on-one lessons in May of this year to ensure she could always rectify makeup mishaps.“If they mess it up, she knows what to do — she knows what to add, what to remove,” Edeme said. “These are things that she's had to train to do, and she shouldn't have to do any of that, because she would get on set and the other white makeup artists are there with their white talent and they're fine.
For veteran hairstylist Dionne Smith, the challenge of being in the fashion world for Black talent is the very low glass ceiling. Today her clients include Regina King, Marvel actor Teyonah Parris, and Little Mix singer Leigh-Anne Pinnock, she said.As a Black makeup artist, showing that you can work on a broad spectrum of ethnicities is critical if you want to book regular work, but the expectation only appears to go one way, said Zakiyah Shani, a makeup artist based in London.
But, as Shani noted, a large portion of opportunities rarely make their way to Black makeup artists. She said a culture of gatekeeping and nepotism — with roles often not advertised publicly or passed between friends and family of white professionals — has left Black talent on the outside despite a growing need for their skills as runways and magazine covers diversify.
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