Le Select, the acclaimed chef’s River North brasserie, is now open (via eaterchicago)
. Due to various factors, including location, it’s been a challenge to find workers. Not so in Chicago for Le Select, Rose says.. He says New York and LA, to him , those two American cities are siblings: “Chicago is a different thing unto itself,” he says.
A lot of different types of cooking can take place inside a French brasserie, and for Rose that was the best way to remain authentic to Chicago and to utilize the 200-plus seats at Le Select. Rose is fond of describing a brasserie’s mission as “serving the highest level of food and service to the most number of people.” In the shadow of the Chicago Board of Trade — just a mile south — the hustle and bustle of commerce emerged as a theme.
Knowing that, Rose says Le Select isn’t going after awards, but aiming for a French definition of perfection. What does that mean? Rose points out that his favorite restaurant in the city is Lou Mitchell’s, the West Loop morning dive that opened in 1923. Are there better breakfast options in the city? Perhaps, but with its humble ambiance and dependable menu, Lou Mitchell’s achieves a level of satisfaction that Rose equates with perfection.
That’s the future of restaurants, he says. It’s not big-name chefs micromanaging kitchens, it’s passing along knowledge to cooks and trusting them to put out the best possible dishes. That’s an elegant way of saying restaurants will use more consultants, a trend. Rose, who described himself as “that guy from Wilmette” who speaks French, is already versed in the ways of cultural exchange in upholding French culinary traditions.
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