Discovering a Daniel Lee-designed Burberry collection in a Paris showroom offers a host of different impressions than seeing his clothes whisk by during a London fashion show.
Dandelion prints and loads of hunter green — the latter for leather coats and puffers, plus a chiffon gown similar to the one Liberty Ross wore to the Met Gala — felt quintessentially English.
The shoes, meanwhile, felt quintessentially Lee, who in his previous job made squishy clutch bags and square-toed shoes a thing. Here footwear was rendered in an array of unusual colors like lemon sorbet, and in striking shapes. His riding boots with ankle harnesses, short, chunky-heeled wellies and zipper-detailed leather mules look like potential hits. Men’s sneakers, with their offbeat rubbery, swollen aspect, maybe not.
In a showroom context, it’s also easier to detect how Lee has incorporated subtle branding across all categories: the Burberry blue popping up on snap buttons and cinching hardware; scarf fringe edging pantlegs, flap bags and even women’s pumps, and its equestrian knight design incorporated into handbag hardware.
His soft and asymmetrical Shield and Knight bags look a bit wonky on a shelf, but a Burberry rep explained that the scrunchable bags are meant to collapse against the body and match the utilitarian attitude of a trenchcoat.
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