California's wine country struggles with a new label: Fire country
The farmworkers who called Francisco Pardo the morning after the Kincade fire began were more anxious than usual.“It’s supposed to smell like fresh fruit and a little bit of alcohol and a little bit of carbon dioxide,” Brunson said. “That’s the byproduct. Now you can smell the starting of a vinegar, nail polish, ethyl acetate-y thing.”He walked away and came back with a magnum of 1992 Petite Sirah , a so-called library wine.
“The past few days has been devastating for Sonoma County,” the company wrote on the Soda Rock website. “In particular, we have experienced tremendous heartbreak with the loss of the Soda Rock Winery, the winery that you may have seen tragically burning on national TV.” The fire’s impact — which is considerable — was mostly felt by wine industry workers who were unemployed while their job sites and homes were under evacuation orders. And by small, family wineries that sell most of their wares from tasting rooms, which have been closed during this, the end of the high season. And possibly by the 2019 vintage itself.
The ripple effects of the fire could last into the future. Most wineries store wine in warehouses off site, so they’ll still have inventory from past vintages to sell. That’s the case at Christopher Creek. But in two or three years, when it comes time to market the 2019 vintage, operations like Foppoli’s and Fritz Underground Winery could be in trouble.
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