Can a Restaurant Critic Learn to Love a Sad Desk Salad?

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Can a Restaurant Critic Learn to Love a Sad Desk Salad?
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Is a prolonged salad-eating binge enough to turn a grumpy, salad-averse food critic turn into a card-carrying salad addict? plattypants writes

Photo: Jed Egan If you’re not prepared for the spectacle, the lunchtime line at my local Sweetgreen — which occupies a corner space in Tribeca that’s way too small to handle the hordes of Salad People who descend from their cubicles in locust-like droves for their kale Caesar fix, every weekday, starting around noon — can be a little shocking. Movable nylon gates are set up side by side, in snaking rows leading to the counter, like in one of those endless baggage-check security lines.

Before embarking on this mad adventure, I ran into a friend of mine, a salad eater of the old school, who still purchases his legumes at the market and dresses them, the old-fashioned way, with a home cooked topping or two and simple vinaigrettes of his own design. He suggested I call his daughter, who was addicted to the leafy offerings of a certain prominent fast-casual salad chain . Perhaps an intervention was in order, my friend mused.

But the numbers fueling the Great Salad Craze of the 21st century are impossible to deny. Chopt, which debuted as a small salad bar on 17th Street back in 2001, now has 60 locations in nine states, and the CEO, Nick Marsh, boasts of yearly growth that’s at least 20 percent. Sweetgreen operates in eight markets now, on both coasts, and will soon debut a new “Sweetgreen 3.

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