Can we fix America’s food-appropriation problem? ourobororoboruo:
Illustration: Frankie Huang Last month, a small-business owner named Karen Taylor made national headlines for all the wrong reasons. After a viral tweet exposed the racist and orientalist language used to market Taylor’s company, which specializes in $15 prepackaged congee kits and is called Breakfast Cure, critics made quick work of tearing the self-styled “Congee Queen” to shreds.
As the mainstream media picked up the story, the narrative was quickly reduced to a familiar “offended POCs” versus “oblivious white people” tug-of-war over cultural ownership, a gatekeeping story at its heart. On one side, viral angry tweets paired with cultural experts who explained the harmful power dynamics of white colonialist practices. On the other side, canned contrition from the white offender and wishes that critics would be less hostile.
I didn’t expect all my quotes to make it into the article, but when it ran, I was bothered to see that the piece made no mention of the many modern congee iterations found across China, and instead focused on the dish’s status as a centuries-old staple, an angle that was also followed by outlets like the Washington Post and Insider.
Viewed another way, the flattened story allowed defenders of Taylor to portray her critics as an “Asian mob” canceling a white entrepreneur in a case of overblown cultural gatekeeping.“Anyone has a right to make any food they want, by the way,” wrote another, bringing up a familiar refrain that fails to understand the existing power dynamics that dictate who gets to make and sell what food, and at what price.
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