A small-ship cruise around the maze of islands scattered off the remote north coast of Vancouver Island reveals some of British Columbia's most magnificent wildlife
Vancouver Islanders have a name for the few weeks in late summer when whales can be spotted from ships close to shore: ‘humpback soup’. Like a pot on the boil, the sea churns over this period with heaving, grey muscle, all popping and roiling and slapping the surface with barnacle-crusted flukes, so close you can hear the wind-tunnel roar of air being sucked wetly into gargantuan lungs.
Cetacean-spotting here offers rich pickings, but the Johnstone Strait — a narrow and, on the surface, completely unremarkable channel cleaving the northeast shore of Vancouver Island from craggy mainland British Columbia — is particularly notable for its high number of humpback sightings. But myriad other species call these shores home, among them galumphing, salt-crusted grizzlies, skulking black bears and rare fish-eating sea wolves, as well as porpoises, dolphins and cougars.
The only way in or out of this maze of waterways is by seaplane — a wide-angled, often wide-eyed perspective that misses the finer details — or by boat.
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