It’s not often that a restaurant’s service manual goes viral. But a photo of the employee handbook at Carte Blanche, which serves French tasting menus on...
That night, we had five preparations of elk, ranging from classic tartare topped with garlic chips to a truly unpleasant bone broth, its bitter, abrasive flavorings based on a misunderstanding of pho. The bowl was huge; nobody at my table could finish.
Many bites at Carte Blanche make you feel like you’re attending an especially lavish wedding reception: crisp phyllo crackers topped with monkfish liver; fabulous bowls of vivid green gazpacho; delightfully dressed oysters; cups of sorbet topped with sake sabayon; dainty cubes of rich chocolate pie; mousse shaped to look like a caramel apple. Once I was served a single tempura broccoli floret.
The good news is that Carte Blanche is responsive to critique. Seafood crudos are now more generous with the fish than they were in the beginning. Awkward leather silverware sleeves were tested, then rejected. Like a shy kid learning to talk, La Rue is now finally using acidity in his dishes. One sauce at my second meal was even a little spicy.
Many of Carte Blanche’s dishes focus on delivering luxury goods, rather than new ideas: the foie gras course, those truffled grits, an excellent caviar supplement. Our servers amplified the effect by bragging about how various ingredients were “highly allocated” or “also used by Michelin-starred restaurants,” as if to reassure us that our meals were exclusive.
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