In case no one's told you: it's fall, y'all.
Welcome fall with a roast chicken and a simple butternut squash and pasta side salad. [Photographs: Vicky Wasik]Being a secular type, I have very few rituals in my life. I quit Halloween when I was six, enthusiastically embraced my family's downgrade from"Christmas tree" to"Christmas ficus" as a teen, and told my mom I'd rather go to a fancy restaurant for my 13th birthday than have a bar mitzvah.
This year, I took an even simpler path, combining the squash and starch into a single warm salad. The starch this time was fregola, a Sardinian pasta that's formed into small balls, similar in shape and size to Israeli couscous. One of the cool things about fregola is that it's also been toasted, with some pieces more browned than others; the toasting gives it a deeper, more complex flavor that works so well with the other autumnal ingredients.
In this case, I preferred a uniformly small size because I didn't want an awkward bite, with large chunks of squash surrounded by little pieces of fregola. It's a small pain in the butt to cut the squash that small, but you can check out ourThen I spread the squash on a baking sheet, tossed it with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and roasted it until tender. Normally,
, which helps break down the complex carbohydrates into simpler, and sweeter, sugars—a process that doesn't happen as effectively at high heat. In this dish, though, you have to weigh logistics against the absolute best results. Since we're roasting a chicken at higher heat, the most efficient approach is to cook the squash at the same time. But that means not taking advantage of the opportunity to slow-roast the squash.
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