Virginie Viard’s Chanel fall 2023 collection was an ode to the camellia.
Sensing a theme here? Virginie Viard’s fall collection was, unsurprisingly, an ode to the camellia, which appeared in every possible guise, from the black leather versions on the collar of a trenchcoat to the fuzzy white flowers sprouting from a black sweater. Lace cycling shorts, glossy track pants, Lurex sweaters and quilted satin jackets featured the brand emblem.
It was all over the accessories, too, from oversize enamel rings to a ball bag with a graphic black-and-white pattern. That went with an Op Art outfit in a grid print that showed a stylized camellia gradually morphing intoFounder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was photographed wearing one pinned to her belt as far back as 1913, and camellias featured in her collections from 1924 onward.
Viard, who was his righthand woman for three decades, riffed on the theme in one of her first collections, the 2020 Métiers d’Art show, with items including a camellia jacket that has become a collector’s item. Every Chanel camellia, including those on its shopping bags, is made by hand by its historic supplier Lemarié.
“It’s a Chanel code that is outside of fashion, outside of time. It’s a winter flower, too, and this is a winter collection,” Viard said in a preview ahead of Tuesday’s show. “It’s about playing around a theme, but the camellia was really more present in the decor.” Her reticence to acknowledge what verged on a one-note exercise was understandable — this was a marketing exercise as much as a fashion statement.
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