Chicago’s Real Signature Pizza Is Crispy, Crunchy, and Nothing Like Deep Dish

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Chicago’s Real Signature Pizza Is Crispy, Crunchy, and Nothing Like Deep Dish
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Deep dish who?

Porter claims that getting the mozzarella from the Mancuso family in Joliet is “essential.” Some restaurants boast of using organic tomatoes in their homemade sauce, while others rely on cans of Stanislaus. Most agree that the sausage, another point of Chicago pride, must come as little hand-rolled gobs with bits of charred fennel seed. George proudly states that Vito & Nick’s has been sourcing its ingredients from the same local family purveyors for as long as the pizzeria has been around.

“It’s counterintuitive,” says Chicago-born chef and restaurateur Dale Talde. “Chefs try to make things equal,” and most tavern-style pizzas come out anything but. Chef and writer Amy Thielen echoes a similar sentiment. “The square-cut shape is its downfall,” she says. “When you think of pizza, you think of an iconic triangle shape. You don’t think of a square.”

Its general unsexiness likely isn’t helped by its humble history—first as a cheap, easy snack among hard-working blue collars, and later an easy solve for feeding small, fidgety bodies. It might have been a popular choice, but there wasn’t much glamour to work with.But that still doesn’t explain how deep dish became synonymous with Chicago. Legend, albeit a contested one, has it that in 1943, Ike Sewell, a Texas-born former college football star and founder of, initially aimed to bring Tex-Mex to the city. His chef, Rudy Malnati, delivered a recipe for this newfangled pizza instead, and the former All-American Sewell stood outside handing out free slices just the same.

But what really tipped the balance was a supposed newspaper article that—as Porter puts it—“nobody can seem to find.” The myth goes that a writer who’d served in Italy during World War II claimed he’d never had a better pie than the original Uno deep dish. That one statement alone linked the style to Chicago, and lodged it in the American conscience as a pie worth trying.

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