Comfort food is comforting at these San Fernando Valley restaurants

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Comfort food is comforting at these San Fernando Valley restaurants
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El Tijuanense Tacos & Birria, Gorilla Pies, Gino’s East of Chicago and Quarter Sheets Pizza all serve delicious remedies for whatever ails us.

) — baking in commercial kitchens, and selling at pop-ups first around the Valley, and then at sundry spots around town. COVID turned Adam into the Los Angeles king of Philadelphia Pretzels., which used to exist solely as a food truck but recently expanded to a brick-and-mortar in a shopping plaza. Tacos Estilo Tijuana — Tijuana Tacos to those of us who can’t get enough of them — can be a bit hard to define. The meats are grilled over mesquite.

At El Tijuanense, one of the few purveyors of the style not found under a pop-up canopy in front of a sprawling Latino market parking lot, the meats run to carne asada, shredded beef birria, chicken, pork cheek and barbecue pork al pastor. The tacos come regular, as quesatacos , as crunchy tostaditos, and both mulitas and vampiros . I like to order the vampiros, just for the fun of saying the name. And of course, the joy of eating them as well — a taste of Tijuana, this side of the border.

Gorilla Pies in Valley Village serves “Pittsburgh-style pizza with a California soul,” according to its website. El Tijuanense Tacos & Birria has gone from a food truck to a Northridge storefront — and a very good one at that, says restaurant critic Merrill Shindler.

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