CookingWithParis is not informative, nor is it practical or culinarily interesting. But Paris Hilton's strange Netflix show rattles the very foundations of cooking television, writes rtsugar
Paris Hilton and her sous-chef, a dog. Photo: Kit Karzen/NETFLIX Ever since Julia Child first braised boeuf bourguignonne for public-TV audiences in 1963, American cooking shows have rooted their instruction in an illusion of ease. Of course you can cook. Anyone can cook! All you do is follow the steps.
Alas, it is not that. Instead, the plot of the first episode is that Hilton’s ex-employee Kim Kardashian West comes over and the two make French toast with glitter on it and a frittata using a recipe that Hilton says she found on the internet. “Nobody’s partied as hard as you and looks as good as you do,” Kardashian West tells Hilton, who smiles. “I’m an alien,” she tells her.
The most cynical reading is that Hilton, who is clearly sensitive to branding opportunities, posted a semi-satirical video of herself making her “famous lasagna” in January 2020, 5 million people watched it, and Netflix bought it. This may be the correct reading, but it is not very satisfying; they could have made something else, and instead they made this.
Hilton enjoys cooking. We know because she tells us at the top of every episode. But she approaches the task with antiseptic reserve. She very rarely tastes what she is making and often protects herself with rubber gloves. “I can’t even deal,” Hilton sighs when she and Demi Lovato mess up the dough for their homemade ravioli, but whatever. She has other, “normal” ravioli waiting in the fridge. You can buy more.
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