A very busy hour with Daniel Boulud, New York City’s most overworked megachef
Chef Daniel Boulud in the kitchen of his flagship restaurant, Daniel. Photo: Andrew Bui Daniel Boulud is running late, but only sort of. He’d gotten the time right, and the location wrong. “Chef asks you to give him 15 minutes,” says Claudia, a no-nonsense Canadian polyglot born in Italy who is Boulud’s current executive assistant. He thought, she explains, that we were meeting at 2 p.m.
From the Skybox, a window gives out to the kitchen below. Affixed to a gleaming hood are two scarlet plaques from the Michelin guide, indicating the restaurant has earned two stars in 2020 and 2021. It had three stars for years, but lost one back in 2015, an event that Boulud’s entire organization — the Dinex Group — regards as The Catastrophe.
Perhaps burned by the vicissitudes of rentals, Boulud partnered with the developer SL Green Realty in the $3.31 billion One Vanderbilt tower, joining a trend of restaurateurs seeking unholy union with high-money developers to create cosseted embassies of privilege far from the indicting eyes of the increasingly embittered have-nots. Boulud describes Le Pavillon, named after Henri Soule’s iconic French restaurant, not as fine dining but “as a fine restaurant.
Left: Highland Farm venison with sumac, lardo, ricotta-stuffed “pomme Dauphine,” glazed beets and sauce “Grand Veneur”; Right: New Jersey sunchokes with black sesame, crosnes, buckwheat, aged sherry emulsion. Photo: Andrew Bui This relentless motion might be why Boulud’s restaurants seem so hard to pin down or simplify. Daniel is certainly fine dining.
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