With his haute couture debut, Demna tackled the insurmountable legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga — and he succeeded.
shuttered the doors to his business in 1968 it was always going to be an unmissable fashion moment. Expectations ran high. Demna, who made his name with hoodies and T-shirts, would be tackling the insurmountable legacy of Cristóbal, the couturier who Christian Dior described as “the master of us all” .
Dressed in all black, with braces on his teeth and the air of a man who has rediscovered his love for what he does, he said that he’s been working on this couture collection for over a year. No budget limitations, plenty of time, and every resource imaginable. Given that he had resisted tackling the legacy of the house’s founding father for the first five years of his role, it took a global pandemic to make him realise that it was time to give in to the inevitable challenge.
And of course, there were Cristóbal’s sartorial leitmotifs, like the exaggerated collars standing away from the nape in order to elongate the neck, which the Capote Swan Gloria Guinness once noted, “allowed women and their pearls to breathe”. And the exact recreation of a satin wedding dress, exquisitely simple and yet incredibly complex to construct, with a single seam running down the train like the axis of an elm leaf. “I couldn't change it,” Demna sighed.
to show his collections a month later than his peers, forcing buyers and journalists from New York to trudge back across the Atlantic, which they willingly did. He looked to the street for inspiration, riffing onuniforms, vinyl raincoats, and the cycling outfits that women took up in the absence of petrol during the Nazi Occupation in Paris.
Sound familiar? There’s more than a couple parallels with Demna, his modern-day successor. The refusal to be a part of the system, the street casting, the unexpected references, the doing it on his own terms. By embracing the past in order to make his couture debut, Demna has completely upended the structure of Balenciaga, which in recent seasons has become known for its digital imagery — as well as the parameters of his own work and place in the fashion ecosystem.
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