“There was little to say but that it tasted like a large spoonful of olive oil in coffee.” Gideon Lewis-Kraus tries the new Starbucks Oleato.
As corporate legend has it, the concept of Starbucks was inspired by a visit that Howard Schultz paid to Milan in 1983. At the time, Schultz was the director of operations and marketing for a local Seattle chain with fewer than a dozen outposts; the stores, the first of which opened in 1971, sold whole beans, leaf teas, and spices in bulk. In Milan for a trade show, Schultz found himself enchanted by the city’s espresso bars.
In the CNN interview, which interleaved scenes filmed in a Canarsie housing project, where Schultz was raised, with others shot on location in a gently breezy Sicilian olive grove, Schultz pours a healthy dollop of gleaming green oil into a milk-foaming jug. He tells Harlow, “You really want to spray the coffee into your mouth, get it in there to really enjoy and taste the different flavors, the body, the acidity, in this case the olive oil.
If you’re going to criticize Starbucks, Tonelli continues, you have to take into account the reality that, “today in Italy, on average people drink bad coffee, and they do it in contexts that are inadequate, slovenly, and substandard from the point of view of both the consumer experience and the service.
In interviews, Schultz has spoken about the Oleato idea as if he were coming full circle. The whole thing appears to have happened very quickly. In September, 2022, Schultz was visiting an olive-oil producer in Sicily, who told him that many Sicilians are wont to take a tablespoon of olive oil each morning for their health. Schultz immediately took up the practice himself, though, at a very robust sixty-nine, he already had the Bransonesque vigor of a moisturized billionaire.
On a cold, drizzly, dark Monday morning a few days after the Oleato line was launched, I persuaded Roberto, my Italian father-in-law—who generally orders coffee in America only to kvetch about it—to join me at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery in Piazza Cordusio.
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