Diving Thailand’s Andaman Sea, by day and night

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Diving Thailand’s Andaman Sea, by day and night
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Lionfish, eels, lobsters, octopi, tuna, sea turtles: They’re all to be found in this renowned scuba destination.

Ko Kradan, a remote island in Thailand’s Andaman Sea, is home to a handful of small resorts. By Erin E. Williams March 22 Bobbing in the inky Andaman Sea miles from the Thai shoreline, I watched a crescent moon emerge as twilight deepened. I turned on my flashlight, peered at my husband, Andrew, and made the most appropriate statement for such circumstances:No bunnies were floating with us; this ridiculous phrase is a crucial mnemonic for the five steps of a dive buddy safety check.

Four dive staffers and nine other divers joined us on the hour-long ride to Ko Rok Nok, one of Thailand’s top dive sites. The island and its sister isle, Ko Rok Nai, reside within 51-square-mile Mu Ko Lanta National Park. Except for the rangers who stay on Ko Rok Nai, the two islands are uninhabited.

Back under on our second dive, I scanned the open water abutting the reef. A faint shape emerged, growing more distinct as it approached. A sea turtle — one that swam so close that I saw each of the scales on its face. From a coral similar to a barrel sponge, with a three-foot opening, my surprise glared at me indignantly: a huge moray curled up like a snake.

I counted three dozen islands dotting the horizon on our way to Ko Waen, a nearby islet that is part of Hat Chao Mai National Park, which encompasses nearly 90 square miles in Thailand’s southwestern corner. Our tuk-tuk driver deposited us at a tiny, private museum. We joined a half-dozen Europeans watching a series of tourist-shot cellphone videos that chronicled the catastrophe that killed about a quarter-million people in several countries.

Our 100-foot boat slept 28 people, but only 12 guests joined the mostly Thai crew. We were seven overnighters and five day-trippers who would head back to shore after the first two dives. Our daybook was packed with four dives with our German guide Martina. The following day, we would dive three more times before returning to the mainland.

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