We spoke to designers who abandoned their own brands to help in other ways:
As co-founder of Zady, Bédat helped build a brand that would come to be described as "the poster child of the ethical fashion movement" and "the Whole Foods of fashion." Zady's launch was covered by Vogue, the New Yorker and the Wall Street Journal; it was backed by the same VC firm that invested in Moda Operandi and Goop; it landed collaborations with Emma Watson and earned Bédat invitations to speak at the White House and on the TEDx stage.
So she pivoted. This spring, Bédat unveiled her latest venture, the New Standard Institute, a non-profit data hub intended to "right misinformation wrongs" in the ethical fashion space by supporting research and publishing findings on best practices. Despite the fact that Lohr has devoted her career to helping launch sustainable labels, she admits, "it's not necessarily like we need all this new clothing" and says that the kinds of brands she mentors are "not going to have the hugest impact in terms of supply chain."
The current moment's reverence for entrepreneurs might have something to do with it. We're living in an age that birthed #girlboss culture and puts startup founders on glossy magazine covers. Starting your own venture has become an almost unquestioned virtue. Ayesha Barenblat, founder of ethical fashion advocacy non-profit Remake, compares this pattern to the coal industry funding climate change research.
"They act like the changes that they need to make are so hard," she says on the phone. "It makes me want to ask: 'Are you telling us you're an inadequate body to do the work?' If so, then you may need to step aside and have policy makers regulating you, and you need to stop trying to be the ones to set the sustainability course."
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