Milan is ready to party, with menswear shows for next spring and winter focused on nighttime tailoring with playful accents.
Think sparkles and glitter, fun silhouettes that invite shadow dancing, and sexy peeks at skin with tailoring tricks once reserved for the female wardrobe.DOLCE & GABBANA BACK TO BLACK
Long overcoats or dramatic capes will get you to the club door. Inside, men’s corsetry, obi belts and cummerbunds cinch the waist, a silhouette that is mimicked in the dramatic hourglass tailoring of coats and jackets with curved waistlines and broad shoulders. A strobe light picks up the sparkles and glitter on garments, and sheer tops and muscle knitwear show off physiques.
A belted gray jumpsuit with a furry collar, aviator’s cap and thick boots set the tone. Once he lands, there are muted plaid suits with trousers cropped just above the boot — the invention of the season. Gear is stowed in satchels and nautical bags. Armani, 88, good-humoredly picked up a pouch that had dropped from a model as he greeted the crowd at the end of the show.The Fendi collection for next winter flashes skin in ways once reserved for women.
Fendi whimsy was on full display in the knit caps: one shaped like a cartoon-cool wig featuring a perky flip, or another beanie with fringe on the back. Capes and sweeping coats and scarves likewise finished with fringe. Bombers had an antique, worn feel. The color palate was mostly low-key tones of gray, oatmeal and burnt umber set off mauve and lavender. Graphite beading caught the light on evening looks.
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