“Some of the best fried chicken in the Midwest sizzles in cast-iron skillets at Wagner’s Village,” the James Beard Foundation says in its announcement. Read more:
For that matter, you’ve probably never heard of Oldenburg — population 674 — steeped in German-American ancestry and historic churches.
But for fried chicken lovers it’s likely worth the roughly hour-long drive southeast as the restaurant was just named a 2023Wagner’s Village Inn was among six winners — one for each region recognized this year — named Wednesday. “Some of the best fried chicken in the Midwest sizzles in cast-iron skillets at Wagner’s Village,” the James Beard Foundation says in its announcement.The award is given to locally-owned eateries “that have timeless appeal and are beloved regionally for quality food that reflects the character of its community.”
About 100 restaurants across the country have received the honor since it was introduced in 1998. The only other Indiana restaurant to win in the category isWagner’s Village Inn, which opened in 1968, is in the Great Lakes region that includes Indiana, Illinois, Michigan and Ohio. “The elements of the fried chicken at Wagner's are as unpretentious as the wood-paneled dining room: chicken, salt, pepper, flour, lard. There is no recipe,” the award notice says. “The gentle heat of the pepper pairs well with the farmhouse fixings that make up a family-style dinner: coleslaw, green beans, and mashed potatoes with gravy.”The James Beard Foundation also has recognized two Indianapolis-area chefs as being among the nation’s best in 2023.
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