Eggslut's first London review is in and it's... not great (via eaterlondon)
, and even if she does wonder whether opening somewhere this “classy” and “innovative” slap-bang in the middle of the West End scans as “very, very clever” or actively “insane,” she contends that this newcomer is “definitely worth a gander.”
The room is “elegant, brightly lit and colourful”; chef Jeremy Borrow’s cooking is much the same. From a short menu, bazaar bread is an early “high point,” a perfect companion to a “prettily bejewelled”and “sublime,” “unmissable” smoky aubergine mezze with feta.
Front of house Myles Davis — “no trumpet, different spelling” — generates a considerable “spirit of conviviality” in already “mellow” surrounds; the cooking is just as enjoyably unfussy, capitalising as it does on “not too much intervention into well-sourced ingredients.” Crispy egg with cod’s roe may be a “cheffy in-joke” nod to Midsummer House chef patron Daniel Clifford’s version of the preparation, but it undeniably works, as the “the crunchy coating and molten centre works its magic on pungent fish roe softly let down by mashed potato.
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