Mary Zophres needed to create 7,000 costumes for the 1920s-set 'Babylon.' And yet, flapper dresses were nowhere to be seen.
What you think you know about 1920s fashion will change after you watch “Babylon,” the three-hour epic retelling of the nascent and outrageous Los Angeles film industry. Packed into a script double the average size is a movies-within-a-movie tale that begins in 1926 with six lead characters, 100-plus speaking parts and 250 cast members. The 7,000 costumes involved tend to speed past in a blink, especially in massive scenes of cocaine-fueled orgies, chaotic movie sets and deadly encounters.
“Here are my overalls without anything underneath,” Zophres says, showing a modest ‘20s version of the pair she put on Margot Robbie, shirtless, to wrestle a rattlesnake. “I could back up every costume with research.” For example, crew members dug dirt samples from Piru, the location of the silent-movie studio set near the Santa Clara River and California 126, and the Big Sky Movie Ranch in Simi Valley, then custom-mixed theatrical dirt to distress and age costumes with a perfect match. Zophres and several departments became experts in elephant poop that splats voluminously over the actors in the opening scene.
Even the tiniest costume was a massive undertaking. Robbie’s character, Nellie LaRoy, wears a skimpy red dress that’s little more than a scarf and tap pants. Zophres and pattern cutter Dale Wibben watched dance rehearsals to engineer successive prototypes. They added malleable boning front and back so the dress miraculously stays put while Robbie swirls and bodysurfs through an orgiastic party.
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