Mambo’s – in what appears as if it could have been a gas station way back when – offers a unique dining experience.
I count myself blessed to have grown up in the Bronx, just a short walk from Yankee Stadium, in a multi-ethnic world of Eastern European cooking.
My love for Cuban cooking was born early in my life, and it’s never faded. The aroma of a plate piled high with ropa vieja – the shredded beef dish that translates as “old clothes” – can easily drive me into a feeding frenzy. Add on some papa rellena, and I’m back in the Bronx, just off the Grand Concourse, chewing my meat while the rattle of the IRT rolls across the landscape.
Whatever the past might have been, as Mambos approaches its 35th anniversary, it decidedly feels…well-loved and much cherished. The walls are lined with dozens, maybe hundreds, of photos of customers past and present, Cuban musicians, notables from the Cuban community – honestly, some annotation below the photos would be appreciated.
Order the Mambo’s chicken, and chances are good that before you consider the tenderness of the parts, it’s the lemon, the garlic and the grilled onions that will fill your mouth with joy.
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