Erdem Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
Erdem Moralioglu’s spring collection was a tour de force, a very English romance and detailed love letter to the character and wardrobe of the late Deborah “Debo” Cavendish, the Mitford girl who married the Duke of Devonshire and famously took on the saving of possibly the grandest of all family estates, Chatsworth House.
Some of Debo’s 1940s floral curtains even got whipped up into the skirts of his evening dresses—and, by the looks of it, into the gloriously chintzy fusion of Barbour waxed jacket and voluminous opera coat that opened his show at the British Museum. “I was lucky enough to work with the textile and jewelry archivists at Chatsworth, and with Helen Marchant, [Debo’s] former private secretary,” he said.
It was peak Erdem, of course. The biographies of strong and unconventional women have always informed the background of the designer’s best work—and this subject, as aristocratic a chatelaine and hostess as they come, was also a robustly practical countrywoman and, as he put it, “a strict proponent of make do and mend.” Debo’s brisk organizing abilities helped save the house after steep death duties brought about the sale to the nation of the 15th-century Devonshire Hunting Tapestries .
Was there a bit of Mitfordian wit when it came to the shoes too? Something about the floppy fabric bows on the toes started to raise the possibility that Moralioglu might actually have been referencing the feathered feet of rare-chicken breeds—another of Debo’s great hobbies. There was serious chic involved as well, though, and an important sense of things being passed down, altered, and reused by each generation.
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