'From tiny grilled peas that taste like caviar, to a quenelle of smoked-milk ice cream—I was left in tears after this once-in-a-lifetime meal.'
The dining room of the once-humble asador, or tavern-meets-grill, in the foothills of Spanish Basque country is still in the same rustic stone building it’s been in since the ‘90s, before the restaurant began appearing on all the right lists and TV shows over the last 15 years. When you have welcome snacks on the terrace, you’re surrounded by mountains and farms speckled with sheep and horses, just as the town of Axpe has looked for centuries.
Victor, the self-taught chef—who’s in his late 50s, by the way—has gotten some ideas into his head, but they’re all about how to coax the most flavor out of the region’s ingredients by using only the fire, live coal, and embers from oak and grapevines to cook them.
As we were leaving, I told Arguinzoniz, through a translator, that I hoped he had a good suit to wear over his black T-shirt in a couple of hours. In my mind, at that moment, this was the world’s best restaurant. He shook his head shyly and laughed*.
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