Fashion insiders Azza Yousif and Michelle Elie on the importance of Xuly.Bët designer Lamine Kouyaté.
editor at large. The news was met with an emotional response from creative director and street-style regularVogue.
I think I was about 15 when I discovered Xuly.Bët. I would see all these beautiful black girls in Paris wearing these layered colorful Lycra clothes with apparent red seams and a big red tag. It was the brand to wear if you were sexy, proud, and in the know about real Parisian culture as opposed to the cliché of Parisian culture—you know, the white girl with the marinière and high-waisted jeans on a bike with a baguette under her arm.
Yousif: I was approached by Lamine and his CEO, Rodrigo Martinez, last year. Shortly before our meeting they had started following me on Instagram, and as I scrolled through their feed I think I must have manifested our encounter, as I remember thinking how great it would be to help relaunch the brand and give it the powerful impact it had in the ’90s.I [met Lamine through the] film director Andrew Dosunmu and the stylist Annett Monheim. Lamine gave me my first big break.
Lamine’s womenswear was mainly body-hugging layerings of stretchy Lycra fabrics. Whether you chose to keep the layering spirit or break a look down and only wear a cropped wrap top with a body-con skirt, the end result was always quite sexy. Polyamide and tulle are such revealing fabrics that there was not so much left to the imagination. When I would see those black girls’ curvy bodies in his clothes I found them so beautiful! It made me embrace my own body and feel proud of my curves.
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