See every look from Liisa Kessler's debut collection for Filippa K's fall 2023 show:
Those two lines from Eminem’s “Lose Yourself” started playing in my head as I sat down to review Filippa K’s fall collection, which translates an escapist fantasy into clothes for everyday life. Creative director Liisa Kessler rewatched Werner Herzog’s 1974 documentarybefore she designed a collection that, unsurprisingly, is strong on skiwear references, specifically those from Sweden in the groovy ’70s. In Steiner, who describes his sport as “ski flying,” Kessler found an escape.
Hired in January of last year, Kessler’s debut collection landed well. Like many other designers, she decided to borrow cues from the slopes this season; it’s a smart move that builds on the rugged motocross sports aesthetic that’s been around for a while now, as well as offering something new and seasonal. Second-skin ski-style pants with a bootleg in a vanilla color reference the aerodynamics of Steiner’s ski-jumping suit.
1990s Filippa K is Kessler’s North Star, and there are references to that time in sheer crinkled skirts and corset tops. As for ’70s references there are “fur” lined coats, carpenter pants, brown-washed denim, and crushed corduroy. A good part of the collection has a “teenage dream” aspect that should especially appeal to Zoomers and millennials. The “Black Diamond” looks in this collection are the tailored pieces and two evening dresses .
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